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美国如何成为披萨之都(How America Became the Capital of Great Pizza)
- Authors
玛丽索尔·道尔从小在墨西哥索诺拉长大，小时候吃的披萨很多都是用冷冻面团和蘑菇罐头做的，但她并不在意。
双语精读
How America Became the Capital of Great Pizza
美国如何成为美味披萨之都
Marisol Doyle wasn't bothered by the frozen dough and canned mushrooms common in the pizzas she ate as a kid growing up in Sonora, Mexico. It was comfort food.
玛丽索尔·道尔从小在墨西哥索诺拉长大，小时候吃的披萨很多都是用冷冻面团和蘑菇罐头做的，但她并不在意。披萨是一种安慰性食物。
"But as an adult," she said, "I wanted something better." Ms. Doyle's first experience with better pizza came in 2006 at Pizzeria Bianco, in Phoenix, and it was probably a lot like yours.
“但作为成年人，”她说，“我想要更好的东西。”道尔第一次吃到更好的披萨是2006年在凤凰城的比安科披萨店，她的经历可能和你的很像。
Mozzarella that melts into pools. Crust that invites comparisons to fresh bakery bread. These are qualities found in the Neapolitan-style pies served at the wood-fire-oven pizzerias that are now fixtures of urban America.
马苏里拉奶酪融化成一个个小水洼。面饼让人禁不住把它与新鲜烘烤的面包相媲美。用烧柴烤炉的披萨店提供的那不勒斯风味披萨都有这样的品质，这些披萨店现在是美国城市的固定建筑。
In recent years, they've become fixtures outside cities, too, drawing diners to the types of small communities - from southern Illinois and coastal New England to rural Wisconsin and Oregon - whose restaurant cultures are often dominated by national chains.
近年来，它们也成为了城市以外的固定设施，将食客吸引到了小型社区--从伊利诺伊州南部和新英格兰沿海，到威斯康星州和俄勒冈州的乡村--这些社区的餐厅文化往往由全国连锁店主导。
All those fussed-over pies, with their blistered crusts, basil sprigs and hot honey drizzles, taught Americans they could ask more from a dish routinely eaten from a cardboard box - and consumed by about one in eight people on any given day, according to U.S. Department of Agriculture research.
所有这些精心制作的披萨 -- 面饼烤到起泡、放上罗勒叶、淋上热蜂蜜 -- 告诉美国人，他们可以对这种就着纸盒吃的食物提出更高的要求，根据美国农业部的研究，每天大约有八分之一的美国人都会吃披萨。
That broad appeal, coupled with the relatively low cost of opening pizzerias and the ease of acquiring the information to master high-quality pizza-making, has made the dish a uniquely effective vehicle for chefs to find a voice while also making a living.
这种广泛的吸引力，再加上开披萨店的成本相对较低，以及很容易获取制作高质量披萨的信息，这使得这种食物成了一种独特、有效的工具，让厨师在谋生的同时也能表达自己的声音。
Until recently, chefs looking to make sublime Neapolitan pizzas would have few options beyond traveling to Italy, said Chris Bianco, who opened Pizzeria Bianco in 1988. "Today you just swipe and study and you can bring great pizza to any town, anyplace," said Mr. Bianco, who is arguably the country's most influential pizzaiolo.
克里斯·比安科于1988年开了比安科披萨店，他说，直到最近，想要做出美味的那不勒斯披萨的厨师除了去意大利之外，几乎别无选择。“现在，你只需刷一刷手机、学习一下，就可以把美味的披萨带到任何城镇、任何地方。”比安科可以说是美国最有影响力的披萨厨师。
The ensuing renaissance has done more than make pizza in the United States better than it has ever been. It has also made the country home to the world's best pizza - or, at least, in Mr. Bianco's estimation, "the most hyper-focused and style-diverse" collection of pizzerias.
随之而来的复兴不仅让美国的披萨变得比以往任何时候都更好吃。还让美国拥有了世界上最好吃的披萨，或者至少在比安科看来，有了“最高度专注于披萨、风格最多样化”的许多披萨店。
That includes Cleveland, Miss., where Ms. Doyle opened Lena Pizza + Bagels last year.
其中包括密西西比州克利夫兰，在那里，道尔去年开了莱尼娅披萨+贝果店。
The pizzeria is part of a rare culinary phenomenon: a restaurant trend born of big-city chef culture that doesn't peter out at the inner suburbs. Lena resembles any number of smart urban trattorias, except that it's located in a small-town storefront, on a street called Cotton Row.
披萨店属于一种罕见的烹饪现象：这种餐厅潮流源于大城市的厨师文化，而且没有在城市近郊逐渐消失。莱尼娅和所有时髦的城市小餐厅类似，只不过它的店面位于一个小镇，在一条叫“棉花路”的街上。
Lena's spiritual kin includes an astonishingly diverse array of restaurants in all corners of the country, including Pizzeria Sei, the Tokyo-influenced, neo-Neapolitan pizzeria in Los Angeles; Short & Main, a pizzeria-oyster bar in Gloucester, Mass.; Yellow, a Levantine bakery-pizzeria in Washington, D.C.; and Lincoln Wine Bar in Mount Vernon, Iowa.
莱尼娅的精神亲属包括美国各个角落的各式各样的餐厅，其多样性令人惊讶，其中包括位于洛杉矶、受东京影响的新式那不勒斯“圣披萨店”，位于马萨诸塞州格洛斯特的披萨和牡蛎店“肖特和麦因”，位于华盛顿特区的黎凡特面包和披萨店“黄色”，以及位于爱荷华州芒特弗农的“林肯葡萄酒吧”。
While the character and food of these restaurants vary widely, nearly all feature a cross-cultural blend of dishes whose common denominator is a supple, flavorful crust.
虽然这些餐厅的风格和食物差异很大，但几乎所有餐厅都以跨文化、融合各种风味的菜肴为特色，这些菜肴的共同点是有柔软可口的面饼。
词汇预习
effective [高考]
美[ɪˈfektɪv] | 英[ɪˈfektɪv]
adj. 有效的；生效的；实际的
relatively [高考]
美[ˈrelətɪvli] | 英[ˈrelətɪvli]
adv. 相对地；比较地
inner [高考]
美[ˈɪnər] | 英[ˈɪnə(r)]
adj. 内心的；内部的；里面的 n. 里面
ease [高考]
美[iːz] | 英[iːz]
n. 容易；悠闲；安逸；自在 v. 减轻；放松；缓和；缓慢移动
oven [高考]
美[ˈʌvn] | 英[ˈʌvn]
n. 烤箱；烤炉
coastal [高考]
美[ˈkoʊstl] | 英[ˈkəʊstl]
adj. 沿海的；海岸的；沿岸的
influential [高考]
美[ˌɪnfluˈenʃl] | 英[ˌɪnfluˈenʃl]
adj. 有权势的；有影响的 n. 有影响力的人物
astonishingly [高考]
美[ə'stɒnɪʃɪŋlɪ] | 英[ə'stɒnɪʃɪŋlɪ]
adv. 惊人地；异常地
trend [高考]
美[trend] | 英[trend]
n. 趋势；倾向；方位 vi. 倾向；转向
appeal [高考]
美[əˈpiːl] | 英[əˈpiːl]
n. 恳求；呼吁；上诉；吸引力 n. (体育比赛中)诉请裁决 v. 呼吁；有吸引力；求助；诉请
rare [高考]
美[rer] | 英[reə(r)]
adj. 罕见的；珍贵的；煎得嫩的
Ms. [高考]
美[mɪz] | 英[mɪz]
n. 女士，小姐
phenomenon [高考]
美[fəˈnɑːmɪnən] | 英[fəˈnɒmɪnən]
n. 现象；奇人；奇事
urban [高考]
美[ˈɜːrbən] | 英[ˈɜːbən]
adj. 城市的；都市的
diverse [高考]
美[daɪˈvɜːrs] | 英[daɪˈvɜːs]
adj. 不同的；多种多样的
spiritual [高考]
美[ˈspɪrɪtʃuəl] | 英[ˈspɪrɪtʃuəl]
adj. 精神的；心灵的；与上帝有关的 n. (尤指美国南部黑人的)圣歌
broad [高考]
美[brɔːd] | 英[brɔːd]
adj. 宽广的；清楚无误的；明显的；胸怀开阔的；粗俗的 n. [俚]女子
chef [高考]
美[ʃef] | 英[ʃef]
n. 厨师；主厨
bakery [高考]
美[ˈbeɪkəri] | 英[ˈbeɪkəri]
n. 面包店；面包厂
living [高考]
美[ˈlɪvɪŋ] | 英[ˈlɪvɪŋ]
adj. 活着的；生动的 n. 生活；生计
bar [高考]
美[ bɑːr] | 英[bɑː(r)]
n. 酒吧；条；横木；栅 vt. 禁止；阻挠；闩上；在 ... 设栅栏
vary [高考]
美[ˈveri] | 英[ˈveəri]
v. 改变；变化；使多样化
blend [高考]
美[blend] | 英[blend]
v. 混合 n. 混合物
renaissance [高考]
美[ˈrenəsɑːns] | 英[rɪˈneɪsns]
n. 文艺复兴；再生
where [高考]
美[wer] | 英[weə(r)]
adv. 在哪里；在那个地方 conj. 在 ... 地方
would [高考]
美[wʊd , wəd] | 英[wʊd , wəd]
aux. 将；可能；大概；总会；愿意；will的过去式
crust [四级]
美[krʌst] | 英[krʌst]
n. 外壳；坚硬的外壳；面包皮 vt. 盖以硬皮 vi. 结硬皮
high-quality [四级]
美['haɪkw'ɒlɪtɪ] | 英['haɪkw'ɒlɪtɪ]
adj. 高质量的；高级的
pizza [四级]
美[ˈpiːtsə] | 英[ˈpiːtsə]
n. 比萨饼
routinely [四级]
美[ruˈtinlɪ] | 英[ru:'ti:nlɪ]
adv. 日常地；通常地；例行公事地
uniquely [四级]
美[jʊ'niklɪ] | 英[jʊ'ni:klɪ]
adv. 独特地；唯一地；珍奇地
swipe [四级]
美[swaɪp] | 英[swaɪp]
v. 重击；猛打；[非正式]偷窃；在解码器上刮刷（信用卡等卡） n. 重击；猛打；[非正式]尖刻的评论
culinary [四级]
美[ˈkʌlɪneri] | 英[ˈkʌlɪnəri]
adj. 厨房的；烹调的
array [四级]
美[əˈreɪ] | 英[əˈreɪ]
n. 一系列；大批；数组；陈列，列队；盛装 vt. 排列；部署；打扮
born of [四级]
美[bɔrn ʌv] | 英[bɔ:n ɔv]
出身于, 源于
any number of [四级]
美[ˈɛni ˈnʌmbɚ ʌv] | 英[ˈeni ˈnʌmbə ɔv]
adj.许多
cardboard [四级]
美[ˈkɑrdbɔrd] | 英[ˈkɑ:dbɔ:d]
n. 厚纸板 adj. 厚纸板的；不真实的；无实质的
arguably [六级]
美[ˈɑːrɡjuəbli] | 英[ˈɑːɡjuəbli]
adv. 雄辩地；可论证地
small-town [六级]
美[ˈsmɔlˌtaʊn] | 英[ˈsmɔ:lˈtaun]
adj. 偏狭的；小都市的；土里土气的
oyster [六级]
美[ˈɔɪstər] | 英[ˈɔɪstə(r)]
n. 牡蛎
kin [专四]
美[kɪn] | 英[kɪn]
n. 家族；亲属 adj. 亲属关系的；同类的 suf. (接名词后)小的
according [专四]
美[ə'kɔrdɪŋ] | 英[ə'kɔːdɪŋ]
adj. 相符的；相应的；一致的 v. 给予；符合，一致；正式协议（accord的现在分词）
supple [专八]
美[ˈsʌpl] | 英[ˈsʌpl]
adj. 柔软的；逢迎的；灵活的 vt. 使柔软；使柔顺 vi. 变柔软；变柔顺
estimation [专八]
美[ˌɛstəˈmeʃən] | 英[ˌestɪˈmeɪʃn]
n. 判断；估计；尊重
denominator [专八]
美[dɪˈnɑmɪneɪtə(r)] | 英[dɪˈnɒmɪneɪtə(r)]
n. 分母；平均水平
sublime [专八]
美[səˈblaɪm] | 英[səˈblaɪm]
adj. 高尚的；壮观的；非凡的；极其的 vt. 变高尚；升华；气化 n. 顶峰；高尚
hyper [托福]
美['haɪpər] | 英[ˈhaɪpə(r)]
adj. 亢奋的；高度紧张的；精力过旺的
storefront [托福]
美[ˈstɔrfrʌnt] | 英[ˈstɔ:frʌnt]
n. 店头；店面 adj. 临街的
重点讲解
How America Became the Capital of Great Pizza
美国如何成为美味披萨之都
bother v. 使烦恼；造成麻烦
【例】He was bothered by the constant noise from the construction site.
建筑工地上持续不断的噪音让他很烦。
Does it bother you that she earns more than you?
她比你挣的钱多，你是不是觉得不自在？
【搭配】not bother with sth 不必费时间做某事
【例】Don’t bother with an umbrella. It’s not going to rain.
不必带雨伞了，不会下雨的。
Marisol Doyle wasn’t bothered by the frozen dough and canned mushrooms common in the pizzas she ate as a kid growing up in Sonora, Mexico. It was comfort food.
玛丽索尔·道尔从小在墨西哥索诺拉长大，小时候吃的披萨很多都是用冷冻面团和蘑菇罐头做的，但她并不在意。披萨是一种安慰性食物。
bother v. 使烦恼；造成麻烦
【例】He was bothered by the constant noise from the construction site.
建筑工地上持续不断的噪音让他很烦。
Does it bother you that she earns more than you?
她比你挣的钱多，你是不是觉得不自在？
【搭配】not bother with sth 不必费时间做某事
【例】Don’t bother with an umbrella. It’s not going to rain.
不必带雨伞了，不会下雨的。
“But as an adult,” she said, “I wanted something better.” Ms. Doyle’s first experience with better pizza came in 2006 at Pizzeria Bianco, in Phoenix, and it was probably a lot like yours.
“但作为成年人，”她说，“我想要更好的东西。”道尔第一次吃到更好的披萨是2006年在凤凰城的比安科披萨店，她的经历可能和你的很像。
bother v. 使烦恼；造成麻烦
【例】He was bothered by the constant noise from the construction site.
建筑工地上持续不断的噪音让他很烦。
Does it bother you that she earns more than you?
她比你挣的钱多，你是不是觉得不自在？
【搭配】not bother with sth 不必费时间做某事
【例】Don’t bother with an umbrella. It’s not going to rain.
不必带雨伞了，不会下雨的。
Mozzarella that melts into pools. Crust that invites comparisons to fresh bakery bread. These are qualities found in the Neapolitan-style pies served at the wood-fire-oven pizzerias that are now fixtures of urban America.
马苏里拉奶酪融化成一个个小水洼。面饼让人禁不住把它与新鲜烘烤的面包相媲美。用烧柴烤炉的披萨店提供的那不勒斯风味披萨都有这样的品质，这些披萨店现在是美国城市的固定建筑。
invite v. 邀请；吸引；招致
【例】He always invited criticism.
他老是引得别人批评他。
The big and soft sofa invites rest.
又大又软的沙发让人不由得想坐下休息。
fixture n. 固定设施；固定物
【例】the plumbing fixture in the house
房子里的管道设施
He has been a fixture at the local coffee shop for years.
多年来，他成了当地咖啡馆的固定常客。
【拓展】fixed adj. 固定的；不变的
【反义词】fitting n. 附件；可拆除装置
In recent years, they’ve become fixtures outside cities, too, drawing diners to the types of small communities — from southern Illinois and coastal New England to rural Wisconsin and Oregon — whose restaurant cultures are often dominated by national chains.
近年来，它们也成为了城市以外的固定设施，将食客吸引到了小型社区--从伊利诺伊州南部和新英格兰沿海，到威斯康星州和俄勒冈州的乡村--这些社区的餐厅文化往往由全国连锁店主导。
fuss over sth 对某事大惊小怪；过分关心
【例】She loves to fuss over her grandchildren.
她喜欢对孙子孙女们百般宠爱。
There's no need to fuss over the details; everything is under control.
没必要那么在意细节，一切都在掌控中。
All those fussed-over pies, with their blistered crusts, basil sprigs and hot honey drizzles, taught Americans they could ask more from a dish routinely eaten from a cardboard box — and consumed by about one in eight people on any given day, according to U.S. Department of Agriculture research.
所有这些精心制作的披萨 -- 面饼烤到起泡、放上罗勒叶、淋上热蜂蜜 -- 告诉美国人，他们可以对这种就着纸盒吃的食物提出更高的要求，根据美国农业部的研究，每天大约有八分之一的美国人都会吃披萨。
fuss over sth 对某事大惊小怪；过分关心
【例】She loves to fuss over her grandchildren.
她喜欢对孙子孙女们百般宠爱。
There's no need to fuss over the details; everything is under control.
没必要那么在意细节，一切都在掌控中。
That broad appeal, coupled with the relatively low cost of opening pizzerias and the ease of acquiring the information to master high-quality pizza-making, has made the dish a uniquely effective vehicle for chefs to find a voice while also making a living.
这种广泛的吸引力，再加上开披萨店的成本相对较低，以及很容易获取制作高质量披萨的信息，这使得这种食物成了一种独特、有效的工具，让厨师在谋生的同时也能表达自己的声音。
ease n. 容易；轻松的状态
【例】He passed the exam with ease.
他轻轻松松地通过了考试。
The ease with which she learns new languages is impressive.
她很容易就学了一门新语言，这让人很佩服。
【近义词】effortlessness n. 毫不费力
vehicle n. 车辆；载体；工具
【例】Social media has become an important vehicle for political activists to spread their message.
社交媒体已成为政治活动人士用来传播信息的重要工具。
【近义词】instrument/means/medium n. 工具；手段；媒介
Until recently, chefs looking to make sublime Neapolitan pizzas would have few options beyond traveling to Italy, said Chris Bianco, who opened Pizzeria Bianco in 1988. “Today you just swipe and study and you can bring great pizza to any town, anyplace,” said Mr. Bianco, who is arguably the country’s most influential pizzaiolo.
克里斯·比安科于1988年开了比安科披萨店，他说，直到最近，想要做出美味的那不勒斯披萨的厨师除了去意大利之外，几乎别无选择。“现在，你只需刷一刷手机、学习一下，就可以把美味的披萨带到任何城镇、任何地方。”比安科可以说是美国最有影响力的披萨厨师。
sublime adj. 绝妙的；高超的；壮美的
【例】The chef's ability to create such sublime flavors from simple ingredients was truly impressive.
厨师能用如此简单的食材做出如此香浓的美味，真是让人惊叹。
the sublime beauty of the mountains
山川的壮美景色
The ensuing renaissance has done more than make pizza in the United States better than it has ever been. It has also made the country home to the world’s best pizza — or, at least, in Mr. Bianco’s estimation, “the most hyper-focused and style-diverse” collection of pizzerias.
随之而来的复兴不仅让美国的披萨变得比以往任何时候都更好吃。还让美国拥有了世界上最好吃的披萨，或者至少在比安科看来，有了“最高度专注于披萨、风格最多样化”的许多披萨店。
ensue v. 接着发生
【例】Chaos ensued when the power went out in the middle of the concert.
演唱会进行到一半突然停电了，然后就出现了一阵骚乱。
【近义词】follow v. 紧接着
【拓展】ensuing adj. 接下来的；随后的
【近义词】subsequent adj. 随后发生的
That includes Cleveland, Miss., where Ms. Doyle opened Lena Pizza + Bagels last year.
其中包括密西西比州克利夫兰，在那里，道尔去年开了莱尼娅披萨+贝果店。
ensue v. 接着发生
【例】Chaos ensued when the power went out in the middle of the concert.
演唱会进行到一半突然停电了，然后就出现了一阵骚乱。
【近义词】follow v. 紧接着
【拓展】ensuing adj. 接下来的；随后的
【近义词】subsequent adj. 随后发生的
The pizzeria is part of a rare culinary phenomenon: a restaurant trend born of big-city chef culture that doesn’t peter out at the inner suburbs. Lena resembles any number of smart urban trattorias, except that it’s located in a small-town storefront, on a street called Cotton Row.
披萨店属于一种罕见的烹饪现象：这种餐厅潮流源于大城市的厨师文化，而且没有在城市近郊逐渐消失。莱尼娅和所有时髦的城市小餐厅类似，只不过它的店面位于一个小镇，在一条叫“棉花路”的街上。
culinary adj. 与烹饪相关的；餐饮的
【例】culinary expertise 专业烹饪知识
culinary interest 对烹饪的兴趣
culinary export 饮食输出
【拓展】cookery n. 烹饪活动
peter out 逐渐消失；逐渐减弱
【例】His interest in the project started strong but petered out over time.
他对项目的兴趣刚开始很浓厚，但后来逐渐减弱了。
【近义词】diminish/fade away 逐渐消失
Lena’s spiritual kin includes an astonishingly diverse array of restaurants in all corners of the country, including Pizzeria Sei, the Tokyo-influenced, neo-Neapolitan pizzeria in Los Angeles; Short & Main, a pizzeria-oyster bar in Gloucester, Mass.; Yellow, a Levantine bakery-pizzeria in Washington, D.C.; and Lincoln Wine Bar in Mount Vernon, Iowa.
莱尼娅的精神亲属包括美国各个角落的各式各样的餐厅，其多样性令人惊讶，其中包括位于洛杉矶、受东京影响的新式那不勒斯“圣披萨店”，位于马萨诸塞州格洛斯特的披萨和牡蛎店“肖特和麦因”，位于华盛顿特区的黎凡特面包和披萨店“黄色”，以及位于爱荷华州芒特弗农的“林肯葡萄酒吧”。
kin n. 亲属；亲人
【例】to stick close to your kin 与亲属保持亲近
【近义词】kindred n./adj. 亲属/相似的
【搭配】a kindred spirit 志同道合的人
an array of 一系列；一批
【例】The store offers an array of fresh produce.
商店里有各种各样的新鲜农产品。
【近义词】a range of/a collection of/a variety of 各种各样
While the character and food of these restaurants vary widely, nearly all feature a cross-cultural blend of dishes whose common denominator is a supple, flavorful crust.
虽然这些餐厅的风格和食物差异很大，但几乎所有餐厅都以跨文化、融合各种风味的菜肴为特色，这些菜肴的共同点是有柔软可口的面饼。
blend v. & n.
1. 作动词：使混合
【例】Blend together the flour and the egg.
把面粉和鸡蛋混合在一起。
【拓展】blender n. 搅拌机
2. 作名词：混合物
【例】a blend of the delicate features of her mother and the heavy ones of her father
（她的容貌）融合了她母亲的娇柔和她父亲的粗犷
课后练习
What are the characteristics of the pizzas served in pizzerias in urban America?
A. They are made of canned ingredients and frozen dough.
B. They are freshly cooked and have fantastic flavor.
C. They are similar to the pizzas available in Mexico.
D. They are mostly made without cheese and with thin crusts.
What factors have contributed to the spread of high-quality pizzerias beyond urban areas?
A. The desire of chefs to work in small communities rather than in cities.
B. The price increases and the decline of national chains in the suburbs.
C. The low start-up costs and the accessible pizza-making knowledge.
D. The convenience and the low expectation of eating a pizza.
What is unique about Lena Pizza + Bagels?
A. It serves a diverse variety of pizzas.
B. It is located in a small-town street.
C. It is fancier than big-city restaurants.
D. It combines bagels with traditional pizzas.
What common feature do Lena Pizza + Bagels and its spiritual kin share?
A. They all serve conventional Neapolitan pizzas.
B. They are all located in urban centers in America.
C. They exclusively focus on American-style pizzas.
D. They combine pizza with dishes from other cultures.