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为什么零食一吃就停不下来(中)

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超加工食品的特点是,食物的变化如此之大,以至于很难识别出基本原料是什么。

为什么零食一吃就停不下来(中)

双语精读

Which foods qualify as ultra-processed? It's almost easier to say which are not. I got a cup of coffee the other day at a train station cafe and the only snacks for sale that were not ultra-processed were a banana and a packet of nuts.

哪些食品能被称作超加工食品? 要说哪些不是就容易多了。几天前,我在火车站的咖啡店买了一杯咖啡,店里出售的零食中,只有香蕉和一小包坚果不是超加工食品。

The other options were: a panini made from ultra-processed bread, flavoured crisps, chocolate bars, long-life muffins and sweet wafer biscuits -- all ultra-processed. What characterises ultra-processed foods is that they are so altered that it can be hard to recognise the underlying ingredients.

其他可选择的食物是: 用超加工面包制成的帕尼尼、调味薯片、巧克力棒、超长保质期的松饼以及甜威化饼干,这些都是超加工食品。超加工食品的特点是,食物的变化如此之大,以至于很难识别出基本原料是什么。

These are concoctions of concoctions, engineered from ingredients that are already highly refined, such as cheap vegetable oils, flours, whey proteins and sugars, which are then whipped up into something more appetising with the help of industrial additives such as emulsifiers.

这些都是调制品的调制品,由廉价的植物油、面粉、乳清蛋白和糖这些已经高度提炼的原料制成,并在乳化剂等工业添加剂的帮助下,将这些东西混合并制成更诱人的食品。

Ultra-processed foods (or UPF) now account for more than half of all the calories eaten in the UK and US, and other countries are fast catching up. UPFs are now simply part of the flavour of modern life.

在英国和美国,超加工食品现在占了摄入的所有热量的一半以上,其他国家的占比也在迅速赶上这一水平。超加工食品已经成为现代生活味道的一部分。

These foods are convenient, affordable, highly profitable, strongly flavoured, aggressively marketed -- and on sale in supermarkets everywhere.

这些食品食用方便、价格实惠、利润丰厚、口味浓烈、营销力度大,各地的超市都在出售。

The foods themselves may be familiar, yet the term "ultra-processed" is less so. None of the friends I spoke with while writing this piece could recall ever having heard it in daily conversation.

对这些食物我们可能很熟悉,但对"超加工"这个词就没那么熟悉了。在写这篇文章时,我问过的朋友中,没有一个人记得在日常对话中听到过这个词。

But everyone had a pretty good hunch what it meant. One recognised the concept as described by the US food writer Michael Pollan – "edible foodlike substances".

但每个人都对这个词的意思猜得挺准。其中一人认可了美国食物作家迈克尔·波伦提出的概念:"可食用的类似食物的物质"。

Some UPFs, such as sliced bread or mass-produced cakes, have been around for many decades, but the percentage of UPFs in the average person's diet has never been anything like as high as it is today.

一些超加工食品,如切片面包、批量生产的蛋糕,已经存在了几十年,但超加工食品在普通人饮食中所占的比例从未像今天这样高。

It would be unusual for most of us to get through the day without consuming at least a few ultra-processed items. You might say that ultra-processed is just a pompous way to describe many of your normal, everyday pleasures.

对于我们大多数人来说,每天不吃一些超加工食品是不正常的。你可能会说,用"超加工"来描述你每天吃的一些普通的、好吃的东西有点太夸张了。

It could be your morning bowl of Cheerios or your evening pot of flavoured yoghurt. It's savoury snacks and sweet baked goods. It's chicken nuggets or vegan hotdogs, as the case may be.

它可能是你早上吃的一碗麦片圈,也可能是你晚上喝的一罐风味酸奶。它是咸味小吃和烘焙甜品,也是炸鸡块或素食热狗,具体是什么要看情况。

It's the doughnut you buy when you are being indulgent, and the premium protein bar you eat at the gym for a quick energy boost. It's the long-life almond milk in your coffee and the Diet Coke you drink in the afternoon.

它是你放纵时购买的甜甜圈,是你在健身房吃的快速补充能量的优质蛋白棒。它是你加在咖啡里的长保质期杏仁奶,也是你下午喝的健怡可乐。

Consumed in isolation and moderation, each of these products may be perfectly wholesome. With their long shelf life, ultra-processed foods are designed to be microbiologically safe.

单独食用或适量食用这些食品中的每一种,都可能是非常有益健康的。超加工食品的保质期很长,这种设计本身就让它免受微生物污染。

The question is what happens to our bodies when UPFs become as prevalent as they are at the moment.

问题是,当超加工食品变得像现在这么普遍时,我们的身体会发生什么变化。

词汇预习

  • affordable [高考]

    美[əˈfɔːrdəbl] | 英[əˈfɔːdəbl]

    adj. 支付得起的;不太昂贵的

  • industrial [高考]

    美[ɪnˈdʌstriəl] | 英[ɪnˈdʌstriəl]

    adj. 工业的;产业的 n. 工业公司

  • recall [高考]

    美[rɪˈkɔːl] | 英[rɪˈkɔːl]

    n. 回忆;取消;召回 vt. 召回;恢复;回想起;唤起;与 ... 相似

  • profitable [高考]

    美[ˈprɑːfɪtəbl] | 英[ˈprɒfɪtəbl]

    adj. 有益的;有利可图的

  • qualify [高考]

    美[ˈkwɑːlɪfaɪ] | 英[ˈkwɒlɪfaɪ]

    v.(使)有资格/权利; 达到标准; 可算作是; 限定

  • protein [高考]

    美[ˈproʊtiːn] | 英[ˈprəʊtiːn]

    n. 蛋白质

  • recognise [高考]

    美['rekəgnaɪz] | 英['rekəgnaɪz]

    v. [英]承认;识别,认出;认可

  • isolation [高考]

    美[ˌaɪsəˈleɪʃn] | 英[ˌaɪsəˈleɪʃn]

    n. 隔离;孤立

  • boost [高考]

    美[buːst] | 英[buːst]

    v. 提高;增加;鼓励;举起;为...做宣传 n. 增加;推进;鼓励

  • concept [高考]

    美[ˈkɑːnsept] | 英[ˈkɒnsept]

    n. 观念;概念;想法

  • mass [高考]

    美[ mæs] | 英[mæs]

    n. 大量;块;众多 adj. 大规模的;群众的 v. 集中 n. 弥撒曲;弥撒

  • percentage [高考]

    美[pərˈsentɪdʒ] | 英[pəˈsentɪdʒ]

    n. 百分比,百分率;部分,比例;利润分成,提成;[非正式]利益,好处

  • get through [高考]

    美[ɡet θruː] | 英[ɡet θruː]

    v. 通过;到达;做完;度过;接通电话;让…了解

  • as it is [高考]

    美[æz ɪt ɪz] | 英[æz it iz]

    实际上; 既然如此

  • for sale [高考]

    美[fɔːr seɪl] | 英[fɔː seɪl]

    出售; 待售

  • account for [高考]

    美[əˈkaʊnt fɔːr] | 英[əˈkaʊnt fɔː(r)]

    vt. (在数量方面)占;说明(原因等); 对 ... 负责;导致,引起;击毙,杀死;报账

  • bar [高考]

    美[ bɑːr] | 英[bɑː(r)]

    n. 酒吧;条;横木;栅 vt. 禁止;阻挠;闩上;在 ... 设栅栏

  • pot [高考]

    美[pɑːt] | 英[pɒt]

    n. 罐;壶;一大笔(钱);奖杯(尤指银杯);[俚]大麻 v. 把 ... 装罐;射猎;(台球)入袋

  • flavour [高考]

    美[ˈfleɪvər] | 英[ˈfleɪvə(r)]

    n. 味道;风味;韵味 vt. 给...加味;给...增添风趣

  • would [高考]

    美[wʊd , wəd] | 英[wʊd , wəd]

    aux. 将;可能;大概;总会;愿意;will的过去式

  • perfectly [四级]

    美[ˈpɜːrfɪktli] | 英[ˈpɜːfɪktli]

    adv. 完全地;无瑕疵地;完整地;完美地;圆满地

  • prevalent [四级]

    美[ˈprevələnt] | 英[ˈprevələnt]

    adj. 流行的;普遍的

  • premium [四级]

    美[ˈpriːmiəm] | 英[ˈpriːmiəm]

    n. 保险费;额外费用;奖金;津贴 adj. 优质的;昂贵的;价格更高的

  • the other day [四级]

    美[ðə 'ʌðər deɪ] | 英[ðə 'ʌðə deɪ]

    前几天; 不久前的一天

  • packet [四级]

    美[ˈpækɪt] | 英[ˈpækɪt]

    n. 小袋;邮船;数据包

  • edible [六级]

    美[ˈedəbl] | 英[ˈedəbl]

    adj. 可食用的 n. 食品;食物

  • aggressively [六级]

    美[əˈɡrɛsɪvlɪ] | 英[ə'ɡresɪvlɪ]

    adv. 侵略地;攻击地;有干劲地

  • wholesome [六级]

    美[ˈhoʊlsəm] | 英[ˈhəʊlsəm]

    adj. 有益健康的;合乎卫生的

  • mass-produced [专四]

    美[ˌmæs prəˈduːst] | 英[ˌmæs prəˈdjuːst]

    adj. 大批生产的

  • underlying [专四]

    美[ˌʌndərˈlaɪɪŋ] | 英[ˌʌndəˈlaɪɪŋ]

    adj. 潜在的;隐含的;在下面的;基本的;[经]优先的

  • indulgent [专四]

    美[ɪnˈdʌldʒənt] | 英[ɪnˈdʌldʒənt]

    adj. 纵容的;任性的;宽容的;溺爱的

  • wafer [专八]

    美[ˈwefɚ] | 英[ˈweɪfə(r)]

    n. 薄脆饼;圆片;[宗]圣饼;[电]薄片;晶片 v. 封缄;切成薄片

  • pompous [专八]

    美[ˈpɑmpəs] | 英[ˈpɒmpəs]

    adj. 傲慢的;自大的;浮华的

  • moderation [雅思]

    美[ˌmɑdəˈreɪʃn] | 英[ˌmɒdəˈreɪʃn]

    n. 缓和;适度;节制;计分审核制

重点讲解

Which foods qualify as ultra-processed? It's almost easier to say which are not. I got a cup of coffee the other day at a train station cafe and the only snacks for sale that were not ultra-processed were a banana and a packet of nuts.

哪些食品能被称作超加工食品? 要说哪些不是就容易多了。几天前,我在火车站的咖啡店买了一杯咖啡,店里出售的零食中,只有香蕉和一小包坚果不是超加工食品。

qualify  v. 

1. 使具备资格;使合格

【例】qualify as a doctor/qualify you for membership

获得医生的资格/使你具备成为会员的资格

2. 符合,配得上(某称号、名称等)

【例】It's an old building, but that doesn't qualify it as an ancient monument.

这是一座老建筑,但不足以被称为古迹。

【拓展】qualification  n. 资格;资历

【例】In this job, experience counts for more than paper qualifications. 

担任这项工作,经验比文凭证书更重要。

【近义词】credentials  n. 资历;资格

characterise  v. 是……的特征;使具有……特点

【例】The rolling hills characterize this part of England.

英格兰这一地区的特征是连绵起伏的丘陵。

【辨析】feature  v. 有……特点;以……为特色

【例】This part of England features rolling hills.

英格兰这一地区的特征是连绵起伏的丘陵。

【拓展】characteristic/feature  n. 特征;特点;特色

The other options were: a panini made from ultra-processed bread, flavoured crisps, chocolate bars, long-life muffins and sweet wafer biscuits -- all ultra-processed. What characterises ultra-processed foods is that they are so altered that it can be hard to recognise the underlying ingredients.

其他可选择的食物是: 用超加工面包制成的帕尼尼、调味薯片、巧克力棒、超长保质期的松饼以及甜威化饼干,这些都是超加工食品。超加工食品的特点是,食物的变化如此之大,以至于很难识别出基本原料是什么。

qualify  v. 

1. 使具备资格;使合格

【例】qualify as a doctor/qualify you for membership

获得医生的资格/使你具备成为会员的资格

2. 符合,配得上(某称号、名称等)

【例】It's an old building, but that doesn't qualify it as an ancient monument.

这是一座老建筑,但不足以被称为古迹。

【拓展】qualification  n. 资格;资历

【例】In this job, experience counts for more than paper qualifications. 

担任这项工作,经验比文凭证书更重要。

【近义词】credentials  n. 资历;资格

characterise  v. 是……的特征;使具有……特点

【例】The rolling hills characterize this part of England.

英格兰这一地区的特征是连绵起伏的丘陵。

【辨析】feature  v. 有……特点;以……为特色

【例】This part of England features rolling hills.

英格兰这一地区的特征是连绵起伏的丘陵。

【拓展】characteristic/feature  n. 特征;特点;特色

These are concoctions of concoctions, engineered from ingredients that are already highly refined, such as cheap vegetable oils, flours, whey proteins and sugars, which are then whipped up into something more appetising with the help of industrial additives such as emulsifiers.

这些都是调制品的调制品,由廉价的植物油、面粉、乳清蛋白和糖这些已经高度提炼的原料制成,并在乳化剂等工业添加剂的帮助下,将这些东西混合并制成更诱人的食品。

engineer   n. & v.

1. 作名词:工程师

【例】an electrical engineer 电气工程师

2. 作动词:

(1)设计;改造

【例】The bridge is engineered to withstand an earthquake.

这座桥被设计建造得能够抵抗地震。

(2)安排;策划;操纵

【例】She engineered a further meeting with him. 

她精心安排又和他见了一面。

appetising  adj. 引起食欲的;开胃的

【例】appetizing smells from the kitchen 从厨房传出的勾起人食欲的香味

【拓展】appetite  n. 食欲;爱好

【例】spoil your appetite/have an appetite for knowledge

影响胃口/渴求知识

Ultra-processed foods (or UPF) now account for more than half of all the calories eaten in the UK and US, and other countries are fast catching up. UPFs are now simply part of the flavour of modern life.

在英国和美国,超加工食品现在占了摄入的所有热量的一半以上,其他国家的占比也在迅速赶上这一水平。超加工食品已经成为现代生活味道的一部分。

catch up  追赶;赶上

【例】After missing a term through illness he had to work hard to catch up with the others. 

他因病休学一学期,不得不努力学习,从而赶上别的同学。

After taking three days off, I have to catch up on some work.

请了三天假后,我必须把一些工作补上。

【反义词】lag behind sb  落后于某人

aggressively  adv.

1. 挑衅地;有攻击性地

【例】The drunken man pushed him aggressively.

那个醉汉挑衅地推了他一把。

2. 气势强的;志在必得地;积极进取地

【例】They played more aggressively in the second half.

他们在比赛下半场打得更猛了。

These foods are convenient, affordable, highly profitable, strongly flavoured, aggressively marketed -- and on sale in supermarkets everywhere.

这些食品食用方便、价格实惠、利润丰厚、口味浓烈、营销力度大,各地的超市都在出售。

catch up  追赶;赶上

【例】After missing a term through illness he had to work hard to catch up with the others. 

他因病休学一学期,不得不努力学习,从而赶上别的同学。

After taking three days off, I have to catch up on some work.

请了三天假后,我必须把一些工作补上。

【反义词】lag behind sb  落后于某人

aggressively  adv.

1. 挑衅地;有攻击性地

【例】The drunken man pushed him aggressively.

那个醉汉挑衅地推了他一把。

2. 气势强的;志在必得地;积极进取地

【例】They played more aggressively in the second half.

他们在比赛下半场打得更猛了。

The foods themselves may be familiar, yet the term "ultra-processed" is less so. None of the friends I spoke with while writing this piece could recall ever having heard it in daily conversation.

对这些食物我们可能很熟悉,但对"超加工"这个词就没那么熟悉了。在写这篇文章时,我问过的朋友中,没有一个人记得在日常对话中听到过这个词。

hunch  n. 预感;直觉

【例】I had a hunch that you'd be back.

我有预感你会回来。

He always followed his hunch.

他总是凭直觉行事。

【近义词】intuition/a gut feeling  n. 直觉

But everyone had a pretty good hunch what it meant. One recognised the concept as described by the US food writer Michael Pollan – "edible foodlike substances".

但每个人都对这个词的意思猜得挺准。其中一人认可了美国食物作家迈克尔·波伦提出的概念:"可食用的类似食物的物质"。

hunch  n. 预感;直觉

【例】I had a hunch that you'd be back.

我有预感你会回来。

He always followed his hunch.

他总是凭直觉行事。

【近义词】intuition/a gut feeling  n. 直觉

Some UPFs, such as sliced bread or mass-produced cakes, have been around for many decades, but the percentage of UPFs in the average person's diet has never been anything like as high as it is today.

一些超加工食品,如切片面包、批量生产的蛋糕,已经存在了几十年,但超加工食品在普通人饮食中所占的比例从未像今天这样高。

pleasure  n. 令人愉快的事

【例】Coffee is one of my few pleasures.

咖啡是少数几个能让我感到快乐的东西。

the pleasures and pains of traveling  旅行中的苦与乐

It would be unusual for most of us to get through the day without consuming at least a few ultra-processed items. You might say that ultra-processed is just a pompous way to describe many of your normal, everyday pleasures.

对于我们大多数人来说,每天不吃一些超加工食品是不正常的。你可能会说,用"超加工"来描述你每天吃的一些普通的、好吃的东西有点太夸张了。

pleasure  n. 令人愉快的事

【例】Coffee is one of my few pleasures.

咖啡是少数几个能让我感到快乐的东西。

the pleasures and pains of traveling  旅行中的苦与乐

It could be your morning bowl of Cheerios or your evening pot of flavoured yoghurt. It's savoury snacks and sweet baked goods. It's chicken nuggets or vegan hotdogs, as the case may be.

它可能是你早上吃的一碗麦片圈,也可能是你晚上喝的一罐风味酸奶。它是咸味小吃和烘焙甜品,也是炸鸡块或素食热狗,具体是什么要看情况。

as the case may be  视具体情况而定

【例】There may be an announcement about this tomorrow -- or not, as the case may be. 

这件事明天可能有个声明,也可能没有,那要看情况了。

indulgent  adj. 

1. 纵容的;放纵的

【例】indulgent parents 纵容子女的父母

【拓展】indulge  v. 纵容;放纵

2. 宽容的;过于宽厚的

【例】be indulgent towards others 待人宽厚

【近义词】tolerant  adj. 宽容的;包容的

It's the doughnut you buy when you are being indulgent, and the premium protein bar you eat at the gym for a quick energy boost. It's the long-life almond milk in your coffee and the Diet Coke you drink in the afternoon.

它是你放纵时购买的甜甜圈,是你在健身房吃的快速补充能量的优质蛋白棒。它是你加在咖啡里的长保质期杏仁奶,也是你下午喝的健怡可乐。

as the case may be  视具体情况而定

【例】There may be an announcement about this tomorrow -- or not, as the case may be. 

这件事明天可能有个声明,也可能没有,那要看情况了。

indulgent  adj. 

1. 纵容的;放纵的

【例】indulgent parents 纵容子女的父母

【拓展】indulge  v. 纵容;放纵

2. 宽容的;过于宽厚的

【例】be indulgent towards others 待人宽厚

【近义词】tolerant  adj. 宽容的;包容的

Consumed in isolation and moderation, each of these products may be perfectly wholesome. With their long shelf life, ultra-processed foods are designed to be microbiologically safe.

单独食用或适量食用这些食品中的每一种,都可能是非常有益健康的。超加工食品的保质期很长,这种设计本身就让它免受微生物污染。

wholesome  adj. 有益健康的;有益道德发展的

【例】wholesome recreation 增进身心健康的娱乐活动

【近义词】healthy/healthful  adj. 有益健康的

The question is what happens to our bodies when UPFs become as prevalent as they are at the moment.

问题是,当超加工食品变得像现在这么普遍时,我们的身体会发生什么变化。

wholesome  adj. 有益健康的;有益道德发展的

【例】wholesome recreation 增进身心健康的娱乐活动

【近义词】healthy/healthful  adj. 有益健康的

课后练习

  • The author’s experience at the train station cafe shows that ____.

    A. ultra-processed food is very popular

    B. ultra-processed food is prevalent

    C. ultra-processed food is diverse and healthy

    D. ultra-processed food is convenient for traveling

  • The ingredients of ultra-processed food are ____.

    A. mostly organic food

    B. rich in nutrients

    C. refined substances

    D. pure chemicals

  • What can be learned about the author’s friends?

    A. They seldom eat ultra-processed food.

    B. They have never heard about “ultra-processed”.

    C. They find the term “ultra-processed” confusing.

    D. They know a lot about the concept of ultra-processed.

  • The author is concerned about ____.

    A. people’s unhealthy diet

    B. the safety of ultra-processed food

    C. the characteristics of snacks

    D. the UPF’s influence on people’s health