米其林的星级评选会让餐饮界付出代价(下)

星级体系（一星表示值得停留，二星表示值得绕路前往，三星表示值得专程前往）是一个多世纪前设计出来的。

双语精读

Amid decades of expansion, Michelin has maintained that its stars transcend geography, taste and trends; that a one-star restaurant in Hangzhou can (and must) have the same value as a one-star restaurant in Hamburg or Honfleur or Hialeah.

经过几十年的扩张，米其林坚称其星级超越了地理、口味和潮流，杭州的一星级餐厅可以(也必须)具有与汉堡、翁弗勒尔或海厄利亚的一星级餐厅相同的价值。

The star system -- one, worth a stop; two, worth a detour; three, worth a journey -- was devised more than a century ago to guide businessmen as they motored around France on the company's tires.

星级体系（一星表示值得停留，二星表示值得绕路前往，三星表示值得专程前往）是一个多世纪前设计出来的，最初是生意人们开着装有米其林轮胎的汽车在法国四处奔波时，为他们提供的美食指南。

Michelin inspectors are full-time employees, and are sent around the world to perform evaluations, ensuring that no inspectors can privilege relationships or preferences in their own regions.

米其林测评员是公司的全职员工，他们被派往世界各地进行评估，从而确保没有测评员可以偏袒自己本地的熟人或自己爱吃的餐厅。

The challenge for Michelin seems to be balancing the high standards that give the brand its power with the imperative to expand into markets that may not have many restaurants that meet those standards.

米其林面临的挑战似乎是要在其高标准和拓展市场的当务之急中进行平衡，其高标准赋予了这个品牌影响力，但市场上可能没有多少符合标准的餐厅。

One way Michelin is trying to meet that challenge is adding new awards. Restaurants noted for their environmental sustainability can now get a green star. Those that offer good value can earn the Bib Gourmand.

米其林迎接这一挑战的一个办法是增加新的奖项。以环境可持续性著称的餐厅现在可以获得绿色星星。价格实惠的餐厅可以获得必比登推介。

In 2017, Michelin introduced a new category for restaurants deemed good, but not good enough for a star: briefly called Michelin Plate, but now simply Recommended.

2017年，米其林推出了一个新类别，面向被认为不错但还不足以获得一颗星的餐厅：简称为米其林餐盘，但现在只被标为"推荐"。

Already the terms "Michelin-recommended" and "Michelin-recognized" have become a common plaudit for the more than 16,600 restaurants that appear in the guide at every level. Of those, only 3,400 have stars, and just 142 have three.

"米其林推荐"和"米其林认可"这两个词已经成为指南中出现的16 600多家各个档次餐厅的常见赞语。其中只有3400家餐厅获得了星星，获三颗星的只有142家。

In some ways, this expanding of the honors is a win-win. Unlike a James Beard award or a spot on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list, Michelin stars are something any number of restaurants can win, and keep on winning.

在某些方面，荣誉的扩大是双赢的。与詹姆斯·比尔德奖或世界50家最佳餐厅排行榜不同，获得米其林星星的餐厅数量是没有限制的，而且可以无限增加。

More restaurants in more places get to flash the Michelin credentials, and Michelin gets to expand its reach and become a more widely recognized arbiter of quality.

更多地方的更多餐厅可以夸耀自己的米其林资质，米其林也可以扩大自己的影响范围，成为得到更广泛认可的评判餐厅质量的权威。

But when thousands of vaguely recommended restaurants can call themselves "Michelin" destinations, Michelin may risk diluting its brand.

但是，当米其林只是含糊其辞地推荐了成千上万家餐厅，而这些餐厅都可以自称是"米其林"餐厅时，米其林可能会有稀释其品牌效力的风险。

Chefs began to publicly push back against Michelin around the turn of the 21st century, rejecting what they saw as its focus on luxurious trappings like foie gras and caviar, crystal glassware and linen hand towels.

大约在21世纪之初，厨师们开始公开抵制米其林，拒绝提供他们认为米其林看重的那些奢侈装饰，如鹅肝、鱼子酱、水晶玻璃器皿和亚麻手巾等。

In 1999, the celebrated British chef Marco Pierre White renounced his three stars, citing the pressure and monotony of maintaining them, and questioning the authority of inspectors.

1999年，著名的英国厨师马尔科·皮埃尔·怀特宣布放弃他的三颗星，理由是维护星级的压力太大且过于单调，并质疑了测评员的权威。

Next came the 2003 suicide of the French chef Bernard Loiseau, who believed that his restaurant was being demoted from three stars to two.

紧接着是2003年法国厨师贝尔纳·卢瓦索自杀身亡，他认为自己的餐厅将从三星级降至二星级。

Recent objections have focused on the elaborate, multicourse menus that draw Michelin stars. They have historically relied on long hours of low-paid (sometimes unpaid) labor, raising questions about the human cost of fine dining.

最近的反对意见主要针对为了获得星星而产生的菜品繁复的菜单。制作这些菜品一直依赖长时间的低薪(有时是无偿的)劳动，这引发了人们对高档餐饮的人力成本的质疑。

Mr. Luck, the Colorado Springs chef, said the mental health costs of the restaurant business are already too high, without worrying about Michelin stars. "We have to protect the next generations," he said, adding. "I worry that chasing the validation of these standards and these stars can be dangerous."

科罗拉多斯普林斯的主厨拉克说，就算不用为赢得米其林星星而担忧，餐饮业的心理健康成本也已经很高了。"我们必须保护下一代厨师，"他补充说，"我担心追逐这些标准的认证和这些星星可能会带来危险。"

词汇预习

expansion [高考]
美[ɪkˈspænʃn] | 英[ɪkˈspænʃn]
n. 膨胀；扩展；扩充
publicly [高考]
美['pʌblɪkli] | 英['pʌblɪkli]
adv. 公开地；公然地；以公众名义
briefly [高考]
美[ˈbriːfli] | 英[ˈbriːfli]
adv. 简短地；简单的
mental [高考]
美[ˈmentl] | 英[ˈmentl]
adj. 思想的；心理的；精神的；脑力的 n. 精神病患者
expand [高考]
美[ɪkˈspænd] | 英[ɪkˈspænd]
v. 使 ... 膨胀；详述；扩张；增加；张开
brand [高考]
美[brænd] | 英[brænd]
n. 烙印；商标；牌子；标记 vt. 加污名于；铭记；打烙印
privilege [高考]
美[ˈprɪvəlɪdʒ] | 英[ˈprɪvəlɪdʒ]
n. 特权；荣幸；特别恩典；基本人权 vt. 给特权；免除
chef [高考]
美[ʃef] | 英[ʃef]
n. 厨师；主厨
detour [高考]
美[ˈdiːtʊr] | 英[ˈdiːtʊə(r)]
n. 绕路；便道 v. 绕路而行
imperative [高考]
美[ɪmˈperətɪv] | 英[ɪmˈperətɪv]
adj. 紧要的；必要的；祈使的 n. 紧要的事；命令；义务；驱使
suicide [高考]
美[ˈsuːɪsaɪd] | 英[ˈsuːɪsaɪd]
n. 自杀；自杀者；自取灭亡的行为 adj. 自杀性的
unpaid [高考]
美[ˌʌnˈpeɪd] | 英[ˌʌnˈpeɪd]
adj. 未付款的；没有报酬的
elaborate [四级]
美[ɪ'læbəret] | 英[ɪ'læb(ə)rət]
adj. 详尽的；复杂的；精心的；精美的 v. 详细地说明；用心制作；推敲；变得复杂
crystal [四级]
美[ˈkrɪstl] | 英[ˈkrɪstl]
n. 水晶；结晶体；表蒙子 adj. 透明的；晶体的
linen [四级]
美[ˈlɪnɪn] | 英[ˈlɪnɪn]
n. 亚麻布；亚麻线；亚麻制品 adj. 亚麻布制的；亚麻的
full-time [四级]
美[ˌfʊl ˈtaɪm] | 英[ˌfʊl ˈtaɪm]
adj. 全部时间的；专任的
luxurious [四级]
美[lʌɡˈʒʊriəs] | 英[lʌɡˈʒʊəriəs]
adj. 奢侈的；豪华的
historically [四级]
美[hɪsˈtɔrɪklɪ] | 英[hɪ'stɒrɪklɪ]
adv. 历史上地
any number of [四级]
美[ˈɛni ˈnʌmbɚ ʌv] | 英[ˈeni ˈnʌmbə ɔv]
adj.许多
transcend [六级]
美[trænˈsend] | 英[trænˈsend]
v. 超越；胜过
celebrated [专四]
美[ˈselɪbreɪtɪd] | 英[ˈselɪbreɪtɪd]
adj. 著名的；声誉卓著的
saw [专八]
美[sɔː] | 英[sɔː]
n. 锯；谚语，格言 v. 锯，用锯割开；看见，明白（see的过去式）
caviar [专八]
美[ˈkæviˌɑː(r)] | 英[ˈkæviɑ:(r)]
n. 鱼子酱
monotony [专八]
美[məˈnɑːtəni] | 英[məˈnɒtəni]
n. 单调；枯燥；单调无味
arbiter [专八]
美[ˈɑrbɪtə(r)] | 英[ˈɑ:bɪtə(r)]
n. 仲裁人；主宰者
trying [专八]
美[ˈtraɪɪŋ] | 英[ˈtraɪɪŋ]
adj. 难受的；令人厌烦的
credentials [专八]
美[krəˈdenʃlz] | 英[krəˈdenʃlz]
n. 证书；证件
noted [托福]
美[ˈnoʊtɪd] | 英[ˈnəʊtɪd]
adj. 著名的；有声望的
plaudit [托福]
美[ˈplɔdɪt] | 英['plɔ:dɪt]
n. 赞美；喝彩
spot on [雅思]
美[ˌspɑːt ˈɑːn] | 英[ˌspɒt ˈɒn]
完全正确的
terms [雅思]
美[tɜːrmz] | 英[tɜːmz]
n. 条件；条款；关系；措辞

重点讲解

Amid decades of expansion, Michelin has maintained that its stars transcend geography, taste and trends; that a one-star restaurant in Hangzhou can (and must) have the same value as a one-star restaurant in Hamburg or Honfleur or Hialeah.

经过几十年的扩张，米其林坚称其星级超越了地理、口味和潮流，杭州的一星级餐厅可以(也必须)具有与汉堡、翁弗勒尔或海厄利亚的一星级餐厅相同的价值。

transcend v. 超出；超越

【例】The best films are those which transcend national or cultural barriers.

最好的电影可以超越国家和文化的界限。

【近义词】go beyond/rise above 超越（限制）

【辨析】exceed v. （数量）超出，超过

devise v. 发明；设计

【例】He's good at devising language games that you can play with students in class.

他很会设计各种在课堂上可以和学生玩的语言游戏。

【近义词】invent/create v. 发明；创造

The star system -- one, worth a stop; two, worth a detour; three, worth a journey -- was devised more than a century ago to guide businessmen as they motored around France on the company's tires.

星级体系（一星表示值得停留，二星表示值得绕路前往，三星表示值得专程前往）是一个多世纪前设计出来的，最初是生意人们开着装有米其林轮胎的汽车在法国四处奔波时，为他们提供的美食指南。

transcend v. 超出；超越

【例】The best films are those which transcend national or cultural barriers.

最好的电影可以超越国家和文化的界限。

【近义词】go beyond/rise above 超越（限制）

【辨析】exceed v. （数量）超出，超过

devise v. 发明；设计

【例】He's good at devising language games that you can play with students in class.

他很会设计各种在课堂上可以和学生玩的语言游戏。

【近义词】invent/create v. 发明；创造

Michelin inspectors are full-time employees, and are sent around the world to perform evaluations, ensuring that no inspectors can privilege relationships or preferences in their own regions.

米其林测评员是公司的全职员工，他们被派往世界各地进行评估，从而确保没有测评员可以偏袒自己本地的熟人或自己爱吃的餐厅。

perform v.

1. 表演；演出

【例】to perform magic tricks 表演魔术

2. 执行（任务）；做（工作）

【例】to perform an experiment/a task/an operation

做实验/完成任务/做手术

3. 表现（好或差）

【例】The student performed well this semester.

这个学生这一学期表现很好。

privilege v. & n.

1. 作名词：特殊待遇；特权

【例】Education should be a universal right and not a privilege.

教育应当是全民共有的而非少数人的特权。

2. 作动词：给予特权；给予优待

【例】The inheritance law used to privilege male descendants over female counterparts.

继承法曾经给予男性后裔（相较于女性后裔的）优待。

imperative adj. & n.

1. 作形容词：重要紧急的；迫切的

【例】It's imperative to act now before the problem gets really serious.

必须在问题变得严重之前立刻行动。

2. 作名词：重要且紧急的事；必要的事

【例】the imperative of quality education for all

向全民提供优质教育这一当务之急

The challenge for Michelin seems to be balancing the high standards that give the brand its power with the imperative to expand into markets that may not have many restaurants that meet those standards.

米其林面临的挑战似乎是要在其高标准和拓展市场的当务之急中进行平衡，其高标准赋予了这个品牌影响力，但市场上可能没有多少符合标准的餐厅。

perform v.

1. 表演；演出

【例】to perform magic tricks 表演魔术

2. 执行（任务）；做（工作）

【例】to perform an experiment/a task/an operation

做实验/完成任务/做手术

3. 表现（好或差）

【例】The student performed well this semester.

这个学生这一学期表现很好。

privilege v. & n.

1. 作名词：特殊待遇；特权

【例】Education should be a universal right and not a privilege.

教育应当是全民共有的而非少数人的特权。

2. 作动词：给予特权；给予优待

【例】The inheritance law used to privilege male descendants over female counterparts.

继承法曾经给予男性后裔（相较于女性后裔的）优待。

imperative adj. & n.

1. 作形容词：重要紧急的；迫切的

【例】It's imperative to act now before the problem gets really serious.

必须在问题变得严重之前立刻行动。

2. 作名词：重要且紧急的事；必要的事

【例】the imperative of quality education for all

向全民提供优质教育这一当务之急

米其林迎接这一挑战的一个办法是增加新的奖项。以环境可持续性著称的餐厅现在可以获得绿色星星。价格实惠的餐厅可以获得必比登推介。

deem v. 认为；视为

【例】She deemed it wise not to say anything.

她认为什么都不说是明智的。

【近义词】consider v. 认为；看作

plaudit n. 称赞；赞扬

【例】The quality of his photography earned him plaudits from the experts.

他的照片质量为他赢得了专家的赞扬。

【拓展】applaud v. 鼓掌；赞扬

In 2017, Michelin introduced a new category for restaurants deemed good, but not good enough for a star: briefly called Michelin Plate, but now simply Recommended.

2017年，米其林推出了一个新类别，面向被认为不错但还不足以获得一颗星的餐厅：简称为米其林餐盘，但现在只被标为"推荐"。

deem v. 认为；视为

【例】She deemed it wise not to say anything.

她认为什么都不说是明智的。

【近义词】consider v. 认为；看作

plaudit n. 称赞；赞扬

【例】The quality of his photography earned him plaudits from the experts.

他的照片质量为他赢得了专家的赞扬。

【拓展】applaud v. 鼓掌；赞扬

Already the terms "Michelin-recommended" and "Michelin-recognized" have become a common plaudit for the more than 16,600 restaurants that appear in the guide at every level. Of those, only 3,400 have stars, and just 142 have three.

"米其林推荐"和"米其林认可"这两个词已经成为指南中出现的16 600多家各个档次餐厅的常见赞语。其中只有3400家餐厅获得了星星，获三颗星的只有142家。

deem v. 认为；视为

【例】She deemed it wise not to say anything.

她认为什么都不说是明智的。

【近义词】consider v. 认为；看作

plaudit n. 称赞；赞扬

【例】The quality of his photography earned him plaudits from the experts.

他的照片质量为他赢得了专家的赞扬。

【拓展】applaud v. 鼓掌；赞扬

在某些方面，荣誉的扩大是双赢的。与詹姆斯·比尔德奖或世界50家最佳餐厅排行榜不同，获得米其林星星的餐厅数量是没有限制的，而且可以无限增加。

credentials n.

1. 资格证书；证明文件

【例】She asked the policeman to show her his credentials.

她要求警察出示证件。

【近义词】certificate n. 资格证明

2. 资质；资历

【例】All the candidates had excellent academic credentials.

所有候选人的学术资历都很优秀。

arbiter n. 仲裁人；公断人

【例】Certain magazines are arbiters of fashion.

一些杂志是评判时尚的权威。

【辨析】arbitrary adj. 武断的；随心所欲的；专断的

dilute v. 稀释；降低效果

【例】Large classes dilute the quality of education.

大班上课会让教育质量打折扣。

【反义词】condense v. 使浓缩；压缩

More restaurants in more places get to flash the Michelin credentials, and Michelin gets to expand its reach and become a more widely recognized arbiter of quality.

更多地方的更多餐厅可以夸耀自己的米其林资质，米其林也可以扩大自己的影响范围，成为得到更广泛认可的评判餐厅质量的权威。

credentials n.

1. 资格证书；证明文件

【例】She asked the policeman to show her his credentials.

她要求警察出示证件。

【近义词】certificate n. 资格证明

2. 资质；资历

【例】All the candidates had excellent academic credentials.

所有候选人的学术资历都很优秀。

arbiter n. 仲裁人；公断人

【例】Certain magazines are arbiters of fashion.

一些杂志是评判时尚的权威。

【辨析】arbitrary adj. 武断的；随心所欲的；专断的

dilute v. 稀释；降低效果

【例】Large classes dilute the quality of education.

大班上课会让教育质量打折扣。

【反义词】condense v. 使浓缩；压缩

But when thousands of vaguely recommended restaurants can call themselves "Michelin" destinations, Michelin may risk diluting its brand.

但是，当米其林只是含糊其辞地推荐了成千上万家餐厅，而这些餐厅都可以自称是"米其林"餐厅时，米其林可能会有稀释其品牌效力的风险。

credentials n.

1. 资格证书；证明文件

【例】She asked the policeman to show her his credentials.

她要求警察出示证件。

【近义词】certificate n. 资格证明

2. 资质；资历

【例】All the candidates had excellent academic credentials.

所有候选人的学术资历都很优秀。

arbiter n. 仲裁人；公断人

【例】Certain magazines are arbiters of fashion.

一些杂志是评判时尚的权威。

【辨析】arbitrary adj. 武断的；随心所欲的；专断的

dilute v. 稀释；降低效果

【例】Large classes dilute the quality of education.

大班上课会让教育质量打折扣。

【反义词】condense v. 使浓缩；压缩

大约在21世纪之初，厨师们开始公开抵制米其林，拒绝提供他们认为米其林看重的那些奢侈装饰，如鹅肝、鱼子酱、水晶玻璃器皿和亚麻手巾等。

renounce v.

1. 宣布放弃

【例】to renounce a title 宣布放弃某个头衔

【拓展】announce v. 宣布

2. 绝交；断绝关系

【例】renounce one’s friend 与朋友绝交

cite v.

1. 援引；引用

【例】to cite Shakespeare 引用莎士比亚的话

【近义词】quote v. 引用

2. 提及某事作为原因或例子

【例】to cite an instance 举一个例子

demote v. 降职；降级

【例】He was demoted for violation of departmental rules.

他因为违反部门规定而被降职。

【反义词】promote v. 升职；晋升

In 1999, the celebrated British chef Marco Pierre White renounced his three stars, citing the pressure and monotony of maintaining them, and questioning the authority of inspectors.

1999年，著名的英国厨师马尔科·皮埃尔·怀特宣布放弃他的三颗星，理由是维护星级的压力太大且过于单调，并质疑了测评员的权威。

renounce v.

1. 宣布放弃

【例】to renounce a title 宣布放弃某个头衔

【拓展】announce v. 宣布

2. 绝交；断绝关系

【例】renounce one’s friend 与朋友绝交

cite v.

1. 援引；引用

【例】to cite Shakespeare 引用莎士比亚的话

【近义词】quote v. 引用

2. 提及某事作为原因或例子

【例】to cite an instance 举一个例子

demote v. 降职；降级

【例】He was demoted for violation of departmental rules.

他因为违反部门规定而被降职。

【反义词】promote v. 升职；晋升

Next came the 2003 suicide of the French chef Bernard Loiseau, who believed that his restaurant was being demoted from three stars to two.

紧接着是2003年法国厨师贝尔纳·卢瓦索自杀身亡，他认为自己的餐厅将从三星级降至二星级。

renounce v.

1. 宣布放弃

【例】to renounce a title 宣布放弃某个头衔

【拓展】announce v. 宣布

2. 绝交；断绝关系

【例】renounce one’s friend 与朋友绝交

cite v.

1. 援引；引用

【例】to cite Shakespeare 引用莎士比亚的话

【近义词】quote v. 引用

2. 提及某事作为原因或例子

【例】to cite an instance 举一个例子

demote v. 降职；降级

【例】He was demoted for violation of departmental rules.

他因为违反部门规定而被降职。

【反义词】promote v. 升职；晋升

Recent objections have focused on the elaborate, multicourse menus that draw Michelin stars. They have historically relied on long hours of low-paid (sometimes unpaid) labor, raising questions about the human cost of fine dining.

最近的反对意见主要针对为了获得星星而产生的菜品繁复的菜单。制作这些菜品一直依赖长时间的低薪(有时是无偿的)劳动，这引发了人们对高档餐饮的人力成本的质疑。

elaborate adj. & v.

1. 作形容词：复杂的；精心制作的

【例】They made elaborate preparations for the wedding.

他们为婚礼做了周密充分的准备。

2. 作动词：详尽阐述；详细描述

【例】Can you elaborate on your argument?

你能详细阐述一下你的观点吗？

validation n. 认可；认证；承认

【例】As human beings we crave validation from the outside world.

作为人类，我们渴求外界的认可。

【拓展】valid adj. 有效的；得到认可的

【例】a valid passport/contract 有效的护照/有法律效力的合同

Mr. Luck, the Colorado Springs chef, said the mental health costs of the restaurant business are already too high, without worrying about Michelin stars. "We have to protect the next generations," he said, adding. "I worry that chasing the validation of these standards and these stars can be dangerous."

科罗拉多斯普林斯的主厨拉克说，就算不用为赢得米其林星星而担忧，餐饮业的心理健康成本也已经很高了。"我们必须保护下一代厨师，"他补充说，"我担心追逐这些标准的认证和这些星星可能会带来危险。"

elaborate adj. & v.

1. 作形容词：复杂的；精心制作的

【例】They made elaborate preparations for the wedding.

他们为婚礼做了周密充分的准备。

2. 作动词：详尽阐述；详细描述

【例】Can you elaborate on your argument?

你能详细阐述一下你的观点吗？

validation n. 认可；认证；承认

【例】As human beings we crave validation from the outside world.

作为人类，我们渴求外界的认可。

【拓展】valid adj. 有效的；得到认可的

【例】a valid passport/contract 有效的护照/有法律效力的合同

课后练习

Michelin inspectors are sent to evaluate faraway restaurants because ____.
A. they want to discover new food
B. it is a tradition to travel around the world
C. it is crucial to make unbiased judgments
D. they are bored with local restaurants
Why is Michelin adding new awards?
A. Because it tries to diversify the notion of fine dining.
B. Because many restaurants are worthy of Michelin stars.
C. Because consumers value different aspects of a restaurant.
D. Because too few restaurants meet its high standards.
The negative influence of adding awards may be that ____.
A. the competition among restaurants will intensify
B. the cost of performing the evaluation will increase
C. consumers will be confused by different awards
D. Michelin’s brand will lose some of its authority
Chefs began to resist Michelin because ____.
A. it was too expensive to maintain Michelin standards
B. Michelin disapproved of luxurious decorations
C. Michelin demoted restaurants for no good reason
D. they wanted to establish a new standard of cuisine