- Published on
米其林的星级评选会让餐饮界付出代价(中)
- Authors
很快,《米其林指南》开始从精英的、铁面无私的餐饮业评论者转变为可以进行合作的商业伙伴。
![]()
双语精读
Michelin's inspection process, and the firewall it long maintained between the guides and the restaurant industry -- no free meals, no sponsors, no advertising -- have given it a special status.
米其林的测评过程,以及它长期以来在指南和餐饮业之间建立的防火墙--不接受免费餐饮,不拉赞助商,不打广告--赋予了它特殊的地位。
It is a costly undertaking (which used to be financed by the sales of hundreds of thousands of hardcover guides per year), but it has convinced consumers and chefs that Michelin makes all its decisions impartially.
这是一项耗资巨大的事业(过去每年靠卖出数十万本精装指南筹集资金),但它让消费者和厨师相信,米其林做出的所有决定都是公正的。
For Michelin's first century, that was largely true, including for the first New York City guide, in 2005, and the San Francisco Bay and Napa Valley guides in 2007.
在最初的一个世纪,情况大致如此,包括2005年的第一本纽约市米其林指南,以及2007年的旧金山湾和纳帕谷指南。
But only since 2019, when Visit California paid Michelin $600,000, have top restaurants in Los Angeles and elsewhere in the state earned stars. So while it is still true that individual restaurants can't buy stars, tourism boards and hotel owners can buy the possibility.
但直到2019年,"加州观光"向米其林支付了60万美元后,洛杉矶和加州其他地方的顶级餐厅才获得了米其林星星。因此,尽管餐厅本身依然无法买到米其林星星,但旅游委员会和酒店拥有者可以买到获得星星的可能性。
In 2010, after the guides had been losing money for years, the parent company hired the consulting giant Accenture to assess their future. Soon, the Michelin Guide began to transform itself from an elite, arm's-length critic of the restaurant industry to a cooperative partner.
2010年,在指南亏损多年后,母公司聘请了咨询巨头埃森哲来评估指南的前景。很快,《米其林指南》开始从精英的、铁面无私的餐饮业评论者转变为可以进行合作的商业伙伴。
Michelin began accepting money from sponsors like food brands, liquor distributors, hotel chains and tourism agencies. Michelin guides in Thailand, South Korea, Hong Kong and Singapore were all published with financial backing from local tourism authorities.
米其林开始接受食品品牌、酒类分销商、连锁酒店和旅行社等赞助商的资金。泰国、韩国、中国香港和新加坡的米其林指南都是在当地旅游部门的财政支持下出版的。
The director of the Colorado Tourism Office, Tim Wolfe, led the effort to bring Michelin to his state. Among Colorado's tourism boards and even its state restaurant association, the notion of restaurants -- rather than ski slopes or rock faces -- as travel destinations is rather new.
科罗拉多州旅游局局长蒂姆·沃尔夫牵头了将米其林带到科罗拉多州的工作。对于科罗拉多州的旅游委员会和州餐饮协会而言,将餐厅--而不是滑雪道或岩壁--作为旅游目的地是相当新奇的概念。
But, he said, he knew that international visitors to Colorado spend five times more than domestic ones, so it was an easy call. To get the guide, his agency agreed to contribute $100,000 a year for three years.
但是,沃尔夫说,他知道来科罗拉多州的国际游客的消费额是国内游客的五倍,所以让米其林来到科罗拉多州是一个不难做出的决定。为了得到米其林指南,旅游局同意每年捐赠10万美元,为期三年。
Following suit were four tourism boards and two resort companies; they told The New York Times that they each paid Michelin 100,000.
效仿这一做法的是四个旅游局和两家度假村公司,他们向《纽约时报》称各自向米其林支付了7万至10万美元。
The chef Brother Luck, the owner of three restaurants in Colorado Springs and a former "Top Chef" contestant, was appalled to see his city passed over. "How do you leave out the second-largest city in the state?" he said. "It feels like a slap in the face."
主厨拉克兄弟在科罗拉多斯普林斯拥有三家餐厅,曾参加过《顶级厨师》比赛,当他看到自己所在的城市未入选时,他感到非常震惊。"怎么能把这个州第二大城市排除在外呢?"他说。"这感觉就像是被打了一记耳光。"
In Florida, which received its first round of Michelin stars in 2022, a similar situation played out. That state's guide was funded with more than $1.5 million from state and city tourism budgets, according to an investigation by The Miami Herald. As a result, only restaurants in the Miami, Tampa and Orlando areas were eligible for stars.
佛罗里达州在2022年首次入选米其林星级评选,类似的情况也上演了。根据《迈阿密先驱报》的一项调查,该州编订指南的资金来自州和市的旅游预算,数额超过150万美元。因此,只有迈阿密、坦帕和奥兰多的餐厅才有资格参加星级评选。
"I'm beyond disappointed -- after the years I've put in carrying the torch for South Florida," said Timon Balloo, a chef who cooked in and around Miami for 35 years, creating the successful national chain Sugarcane Bar & Grill and Downtown Miami's popular Balloo before the pandemic forced him to move to Fort Lauderdale.
"我失望至极--毕竟多年来我一直在南佛罗里达州餐饮界打拼。"主厨丁蒙·巴洛说。他在迈阿密及其周边地区烹饪了35年,创立了全国知名连锁店甘蔗酒吧和烧烤以及迈阿密市中心颇受欢迎的巴洛餐厅,后来疫情迫使他搬到劳德代尔堡。
He said that if he had known the move would make him ineligible for Michelin consideration, he would have fought harder to keep his footing in Miami.
他说,如果他知道搬离迈阿密会让他失去米其林入选资格,他会更努力地保持住他在迈阿密的地位。
词汇预习
individual [高考]
美[ˌɪndɪˈvɪdʒuəl] | 英[ˌɪndɪˈvɪdʒuəl]
adj. 单独的;一个人的;独有的 n. 个人;个体
financial [高考]
美[faɪˈnænʃl] | 英[faɪˈnænʃl]
adj. 金融的;财政的;[非正式]有钱的
giant [高考]
美[ˈdʒaɪənt] | 英[ˈdʒaɪənt]
n. 巨人;巨物;大公司 adj. 巨大的
largely [高考]
美[ˈlɑːrdʒli] | 英[ˈlɑːdʒli]
adv. 大部分;主要地
resort [高考]
美[rɪˈzɔːrt] | 英[rɪˈzɔːt]
n. (度假)胜地;手段;凭借 vi. 诉诸;常去
elsewhere [高考]
美[ˌelsˈwer] | 英[ˌelsˈweə(r)]
adv. 别处
critic [高考]
美[ˈkrɪtɪk] | 英[ˈkrɪtɪk]
n. 评论家;批评家
inspection [高考]
美[ɪnˈspekʃn] | 英[ɪnˈspekʃn]
n. 视察;检查
torch [高考]
美[tɔːrtʃ] | 英[tɔːtʃ]
n. 火炬,火把,手电筒,[俚]纵火犯 v. 纵火焚烧,放火烧
cooperative [高考]
美[koʊˈɑːpərətɪv] | 英[kəʊˈɒpərətɪv]
adj. 合作的;协作的 n. 合作社
eligible [高考]
美[ˈelɪdʒəbl] | 英[ˈelɪdʒəbl]
adj. 有资格的;合适的
costly [高考]
美[ˈkɔːstli] | 英[ˈkɒstli]
adj. 昂贵的;代价高的
investigation [高考]
美[ɪnˌvestɪˈɡeɪʃn] | 英[ɪnˌvestɪˈɡeɪʃn]
n. 调查
per [高考]
美[pər] | 英[pə(r)]
prep. 每;每一;经过;按照
contribute [高考]
美[kənˈtrɪbjuːt] | 英[kənˈtrɪbjuːt]
vt. 捐助;投稿 vi. 投稿;贡献;是原因之一
agency [高考]
美[ˈeɪdʒənsi] | 英[ˈeɪdʒənsi]
n. 代理;代理处;政府机构
possibility [高考]
美[ˌpɑːsəˈbɪləti] | 英[ˌpɒsəˈbɪləti]
n. 可能;可能性;可能的事情;潜在的价值
status [高考]
美[ˈsteɪtəs , ˈstætəs] | 英[ˈsteɪtəs]
n. 地位;情形;状况,状态;身份
former [高考]
美[ˈfɔːrmər] | 英[ˈfɔːmə(r)]
adj. 前者的;前任的;以前的 n. 创造者;[英]学校某一年级的学生
assess [高考]
美[əˈses] | 英[əˈses]
v. 评定;评估;估算
length [高考]
美[leŋθ] | 英[leŋθ]
n. 长度;时间长短;距离;一段;距离的测量单位
consideration [高考]
美[kənˌsɪdəˈreɪʃn] | 英[kənˌsɪdəˈreɪʃn]
n. 考虑;体贴;考虑因素;敬重;意见
transform [高考]
美[trænsˈfɔːrm] | 英[trænsˈfɔːm]
v. 使改观,使变形,使转化;变换(电流)的电压;(数)变换(数学实体) n.(数,语言学)变换式,转换句;(数,语言学)转换规则
chef [高考]
美[ʃef] | 英[ʃef]
n. 厨师;主厨
disappointed [高考]
美[ˌdɪsəˈpɔɪntɪd] | 英[ˌdɪsəˈpɔɪntɪd]
adj. 失望的
domestic [高考]
美[dəˈmestɪk] | 英[dəˈmestɪk]
adj. 家庭的;国内的;驯养的 n. 佣人;家仆
notion [高考]
美[ˈnoʊʃn] | 英[ˈnəʊʃn]
n. 观念;概念;想法;主张
slap [高考]
美[slæp] | 英[slæp]
n. 侮辱;掴;拍击声 vt. 侮辱;拍击;惩罚;申斥 adv. 直接地;正面地;突然地
would [高考]
美[wʊd , wəd] | 英[wʊd , wəd]
aux. 将;可能;大概;总会;愿意;will的过去式
liquor [四级]
美[ˈlɪkər] | 英[ˈlɪkə(r)]
n. 酒,含酒精饮料;液体;烈酒 vi. 喝酒,灌酒 vt. 使喝醉
advertising [四级]
美[ˈædvərtaɪzɪŋ] | 英[ˈædvətaɪzɪŋ]
n. 广告;广告业
elite [四级]
美[eɪˈliːt , ɪˈliːt] | 英[eɪˈliːt , ɪˈliːt]
n. 精英 adj. 精英的;优秀的
leave out [六级]
美[liːv aʊt] | 英[liːv aʊt]
省去; 不考虑; 遗漏
authorities [专四]
美[əˈθɔrətiz] | 英[ɔːˈθɒrɪtiz]
n. 当局;官方
according [专四]
美[ə'kɔrdɪŋ] | 英[ə'kɔːdɪŋ]
adj. 相符的;相应的;一致的 v. 给予;符合,一致;正式协议(accord的现在分词)
重点讲解
Michelin's inspection process, and the firewall it long maintained between the guides and the restaurant industry -- no free meals, no sponsors, no advertising -- have given it a special status.
米其林的测评过程,以及它长期以来在指南和餐饮业之间建立的防火墙--不接受免费餐饮,不拉赞助商,不打广告--赋予了它特殊的地位。
finance n. & v.
1. 作名词:金融;财务
【例】public finances 公共财务
2. 作动词:提供资金
【例】to finance his studies by doing part-time jobs 通过做兼职来供自己上学
【近义词】fund v. 提供资金
impartially adv. 公正地;不偏不倚地
【例】to judge the essays impartially 公正地评判这些文章
【拓展】impartial adj. 公正的;不偏不倚的
【反义词】partial adj. 部分的;偏袒的
【近义词】neutral/unbiased adj. 中立的
It is a costly undertaking (which used to be financed by the sales of hundreds of thousands of hardcover guides per year), but it has convinced consumers and chefs that Michelin makes all its decisions impartially.
这是一项耗资巨大的事业(过去每年靠卖出数十万本精装指南筹集资金),但它让消费者和厨师相信,米其林做出的所有决定都是公正的。
finance n. & v.
1. 作名词:金融;财务
【例】public finances 公共财务
2. 作动词:提供资金
【例】to finance his studies by doing part-time jobs 通过做兼职来供自己上学
【近义词】fund v. 提供资金
impartially adv. 公正地;不偏不倚地
【例】to judge the essays impartially 公正地评判这些文章
【拓展】impartial adj. 公正的;不偏不倚的
【反义词】partial adj. 部分的;偏袒的
【近义词】neutral/unbiased adj. 中立的
For Michelin****'s first century,**** that**** was largely true****,**** including for the first New York**** City**** guide,**** in**** 2005****,**** and the San Francisco Bay and Napa**** Valley**** guides**** in**** 2007****.****
在最初的一个世纪,情况大致如此,包括2005年的第一本纽约市米其林指南,以及2007年的旧金山湾和纳帕谷指南。
But only**** since 2019****,**** when**** Visit California**** paid**** Michelin**** $600****,000,**** have**** top restaurants in**** Los Angeles and elsewhere in**** the state earned**** stars.**** So**** while it**** is**** still true**** that**** individual**** restaurants can't buy stars,**** tourism boards**** and hotel owners**** can buy the possibility.****
但直到2019年,"加州观光"向米其林支付了60万美元后,洛杉矶和加州其他地方的顶级餐厅才获得了米其林星星。因此,尽管餐厅本身依然无法买到米其林星星,但旅游委员会和酒店拥有者可以买到获得星星的可能性。
In 2010, after the guides had been losing money for years, the parent company hired the consulting giant Accenture to assess their future. Soon, the Michelin Guide began to transform itself from an elite, arm's-length critic of the restaurant industry to a cooperative partner.
2010年,在指南亏损多年后,母公司聘请了咨询巨头埃森哲来评估指南的前景。很快,《米其林指南》开始从精英的、铁面无私的餐饮业评论者转变为可以进行合作的商业伙伴。
arm’s-length adj. 拒绝与人亲近的;保持距离的
【例】maintain an arm’s length relationship 保持一种不即不离的关系
【搭配】keep sb at arm’s length 与某人保持距离
【例】The psychiatrist keeps all his clients at arm's length.
这位心理咨询师不与任何客户过分亲密。
critic n. 批评家;评论家
【例】a music/film critic 乐评人/影评人
【拓展】criticize/critical v./adj. 批评/批评性的
backing n. 协助;支持
【例】The plan has the backing of the government.
这项计划有政府的支持。
【拓展】back v. 帮助;支持
【例】Her parents backed her in her choice of career.
她父母支持她的职业选择。
Michelin began accepting money from sponsors like food brands, liquor distributors, hotel chains and tourism agencies. Michelin guides in Thailand, South Korea, Hong Kong and Singapore were all published with financial backing from local tourism authorities.
米其林开始接受食品品牌、酒类分销商、连锁酒店和旅行社等赞助商的资金。泰国、韩国、中国香港和新加坡的米其林指南都是在当地旅游部门的财政支持下出版的。
arm’s-length adj. 拒绝与人亲近的;保持距离的
【例】maintain an arm’s length relationship 保持一种不即不离的关系
【搭配】keep sb at arm’s length 与某人保持距离
【例】The psychiatrist keeps all his clients at arm's length.
这位心理咨询师不与任何客户过分亲密。
critic n. 批评家;评论家
【例】a music/film critic 乐评人/影评人
【拓展】criticize/critical v./adj. 批评/批评性的
backing n. 协助;支持
【例】The plan has the backing of the government.
这项计划有政府的支持。
【拓展】back v. 帮助;支持
【例】Her parents backed her in her choice of career.
她父母支持她的职业选择。
The director of the Colorado Tourism Office, Tim Wolfe, led the effort to bring Michelin to his state. Among Colorado's tourism boards and even its state restaurant association, the notion of restaurants -- rather than ski slopes or rock faces -- as travel destinations is rather new.
科罗拉多州旅游局局长蒂姆·沃尔夫牵头了将米其林带到科罗拉多州的工作。对于科罗拉多州的旅游委员会和州餐饮协会而言,将餐厅--而不是滑雪道或岩壁--作为旅游目的地是相当新奇的概念。
destination n. & adj.
1. 作名词
(1)目的地
【例】to reach the destination 到达目的地
(2)(旅游、度假)胜地
【例】a popular holiday destination 热门度假胜地
2. 作形容词:专程前往的
【例】a destination wedding/restaurant 目的地婚礼/值得打卡的餐厅
But, he said, he knew that international visitors to Colorado spend five times more than domestic ones, so it was an easy call. To get the guide, his agency agreed to contribute $100,000 a year for three years.
但是,沃尔夫说,他知道来科罗拉多州的国际游客的消费额是国内游客的五倍,所以让米其林来到科罗拉多州是一个不难做出的决定。为了得到米其林指南,旅游局同意每年捐赠10万美元,为期三年。
call n. (口语)决定
【例】It’s your call. 你来决定。
contribute v.
1. 做出贡献
【例】Immigrants have contributed to British culture in many ways.
移民在许多方面都对英国文化有所贡献。
2. 捐赠(尤指金钱或物品)
【例】contribute food and clothing to refugees 为难民捐赠食物和衣服
3. 是……的部分原因
【例】Air pollution contributes to lung diseases.
空气污染是引发肺病的原因之一。
follow suit 跟牌;效仿某人
【例】When one airline reduces its ticket prices, the rest usually follow suit.
一家航空公司降价后,其他航司通常也会照做。
【近义词】follow in one’s footsteps 追随某人的脚步
Following suit were four tourism boards and two resort companies; they told The New York Times that they each paid Michelin 100,000.
效仿这一做法的是四个旅游局和两家度假村公司,他们向《纽约时报》称各自向米其林支付了7万至10万美元。
call n. (口语)决定
【例】It’s your call. 你来决定。
contribute v.
1. 做出贡献
【例】Immigrants have contributed to British culture in many ways.
移民在许多方面都对英国文化有所贡献。
2. 捐赠(尤指金钱或物品)
【例】contribute food and clothing to refugees 为难民捐赠食物和衣服
3. 是……的部分原因
【例】Air pollution contributes to lung diseases.
空气污染是引发肺病的原因之一。
follow suit 跟牌;效仿某人
【例】When one airline reduces its ticket prices, the rest usually follow suit.
一家航空公司降价后,其他航司通常也会照做。
【近义词】follow in one’s footsteps 追随某人的脚步
The chef Brother Luck, the owner of three restaurants in Colorado Springs and a former "Top Chef" contestant, was appalled to see his city passed over. "How do you leave out the second-largest city in the state?" he said. "It feels like a slap in the face."
主厨拉克兄弟在科罗拉多斯普林斯拥有三家餐厅,曾参加过《顶级厨师》比赛,当他看到自己所在的城市未入选时,他感到非常震惊。"怎么能把这个州第二大城市排除在外呢?"他说。"这感觉就像是被打了一记耳光。"
appalled adj. 惊骇的
【例】She was appalled to see how much damage the storm had caused.
她看到风暴造成了如此大的破坏,感到十分惊骇。
【近义词】shocked adj. 震惊的
【拓展】appalling adj. 令人惊骇的;极为恶劣的
【例】The prisoners were living in appalling conditions.
囚犯的居住条件极为恶劣。
leave out 不包括;不涉及
【例】She left out an important detail in her account.
她在叙述中省略了一个重要细节。
eligible adj. 有资格的;具备条件的
【例】be eligible for a retirement pension 有资格领取退休金
【近义词】entitled adj. 有资格的;有权利的
【反义词】ineligible adj. 没有资格的
【辨析】legible/illegible adj. 清晰的/字迹模糊的
In Florida, which received its first round of Michelin stars in 2022, a similar situation played out. That state's guide was funded with more than $1.5 million from state and city tourism budgets, according to an investigation by The Miami Herald. As a result, only restaurants in the Miami, Tampa and Orlando areas were eligible for stars.
佛罗里达州在2022年首次入选米其林星级评选,类似的情况也上演了。根据《迈阿密先驱报》的一项调查,该州编订指南的资金来自州和市的旅游预算,数额超过150万美元。因此,只有迈阿密、坦帕和奥兰多的餐厅才有资格参加星级评选。
appalled adj. 惊骇的
【例】She was appalled to see how much damage the storm had caused.
她看到风暴造成了如此大的破坏,感到十分惊骇。
【近义词】shocked adj. 震惊的
【拓展】appalling adj. 令人惊骇的;极为恶劣的
【例】The prisoners were living in appalling conditions.
囚犯的居住条件极为恶劣。
leave out 不包括;不涉及
【例】She left out an important detail in her account.
她在叙述中省略了一个重要细节。
eligible adj. 有资格的;具备条件的
【例】be eligible for a retirement pension 有资格领取退休金
【近义词】entitled adj. 有资格的;有权利的
【反义词】ineligible adj. 没有资格的
【辨析】legible/illegible adj. 清晰的/字迹模糊的
"I'm beyond disappointed -- after the years I've put in carrying the torch for South Florida," said Timon Balloo, a chef who cooked in and around Miami for 35 years, creating the successful national chain Sugarcane Bar & Grill and Downtown Miami's popular Balloo before the pandemic forced him to move to Fort Lauderdale.
"我失望至极--毕竟多年来我一直在南佛罗里达州餐饮界打拼。"主厨丁蒙·巴洛说。他在迈阿密及其周边地区烹饪了35年,创立了全国知名连锁店甘蔗酒吧和烧烤以及迈阿密市中心颇受欢迎的巴洛餐厅,后来疫情迫使他搬到劳德代尔堡。
carry the torch for
1. 为……而奋斗
【例】carry the torch for freedom 为自由而战
2. 单相思;暗恋
【例】He has been carrying a torch for her for years.
他暗恋了她多年。
【拓展】torch song 暗恋情歌;苦情歌
footing n.
1. 站稳;立足点
【例】lose one’s footing/struggle for a footing in society
没站稳/力争在社会上站稳脚跟
2. 地位
【例】Men and women should be able to compete for jobs on an equal footing.
男性和女性应在同等地位上竞争工作机会。
He said that if he had known the move would make him ineligible for Michelin consideration, he would have fought harder to keep his footing in Miami.
他说,如果他知道搬离迈阿密会让他失去米其林入选资格,他会更努力地保持住他在迈阿密的地位。
carry the torch for
1. 为……而奋斗
【例】carry the torch for freedom 为自由而战
2. 单相思;暗恋
【例】He has been carrying a torch for her for years.
他暗恋了她多年。
【拓展】torch song 暗恋情歌;苦情歌
footing n.
1. 站稳;立足点
【例】lose one’s footing/struggle for a footing in society
没站稳/力争在社会上站稳脚跟
2. 地位
【例】Men and women should be able to compete for jobs on an equal footing.
男性和女性应在同等地位上竞争工作机会。
课后练习
Michelin used to maintain its impartiality by ____.
A. conducting the inspection process independently
B. selecting professional and experienced inspectors
C. publishing the results for public scrutiny
D. raising substantial funds for the program
What happened to Michelin after 2019?
A. It allowed restaurants to buy Michelin stars.
B. It charged restaurants to be included in the inspection.
C. It started to accept sponsorships from brands.
D. It expanded its coverage to increase revenue.
Tim Wolfe strived to bring Michelin to his state because ____.
A. fine dining was a novel idea in Colorado
B. the restaurant association campaigned for the guide
C. Michelin restaurants could attract more visitors
D. he planned to build some resorts in Colorado
Timon Balloo was disappointed because ____.
A. Michelin never considered Florida for the guide
B. Florida refused to offer financial support to Michelin
C. his restaurant failed to earn any Michelin star
D. Fort Lauderdale was excluded from the inspection